Flashback: Bushfire and St. Lucia

Enjoying the music at Bushfire 

Bushfire is an annual music festival in May Swaziland - 3 days of live performances from all over the world (though most performers were from Africa).  Gelane, Premal and I missed it in 2010 so we had been planning to attend in 2011 for some time.  Then realizing that there was a Botswana holiday the same week, we decided to make a week of it and explore the Eastern coast of South Africa with Bri joining us there.  We got off on a bit of a bad start.  We drove from Gaborone to Pretoria in Gelane's car and then realized that the radiator was leaking.  We took the car to a Honda dealer and they said the radiator needed to be completely replaced.....We spent several hours in the Honda dealer (during which I finished the handwarmers I had been making for Gelane)...

Gelane testing out the new hand warmers and praying that they would be able to find a radiator in the area!

Unfortunately they were not able to find the radiator in the area and told us that the car could not be fixed until Tuesday (it was Friday and bushfire was Friday-Sunday in Swaziland which was still a 5 hour drive away!) So we went into planning mode and to make a long story short - headed off in a rented Nissan Hardbody truck (with manual transmission)!  We needed such a big car since we had so much stuff (below is Premal in the rental agency with all our stuff....)

We finally arrived in Swaziland at night and managed to put up our tent in the dark (Premal got really into hammering in the stakes - below) before heading out to experience the music. 

For 3 nights and 2 days, we were treated to some amazing performances.  We camped right next to the area where the stages were and it was great to be able to come and go as we pleased.  

Here is Gelane in the midst of the crowd in front of the stage

It was gorgeous during the days and pretty darn cold at night, but thanks to Liz and Jon's awesome tent and camping equipment we managed to stay pretty warm.  

Oliver Mtukudzi was definitely our favorite.  He is in his 60s and still was jumping around the stage and has an amazing voice!

There was one artist from Botswana, Shanti-Lo, who we also really enjoyed.

When the concert finished we drove through Swaziland (it is a tiny land locked country surrounded by South Africa). We stopped at the Swazi Candle factory where we saw intricate candles of all kinds (from elephants to birds to larger circular creations - these people were talented with wax) being made.

We watched this entire rhino be created and it only took about 10 minutes!

Next stop was St. Lucia - no not the island in the Caribbean!  There is a beach town along the Eastern Coast of South Africa called St. Lucia.  It was a very sleepy beach town (esp. because it was not high season).  Which meant we had a gorgeous beach to ourselves and plenty of room for the requisite jump shots ;)

We even went snorkeling one day though the water was extremely cold and the waves were pretty rough. After freezing a bit and getting bashed by the waves, Gelane and Premal spotted a small tidal pool and decided to try it....

The town is basically in the iSimangaliso Wetlands Park which provided for some amazing views and landscapes as well as excellent animal spotting on our self-drive safaris.  We saw rhino, buffalo, giant kudu, and then on a boat cruise we were super close to Crocs and hippos!

 Here are some photos from the boat cruise

Bri, Gelane, and I even got to go scuba diving in Sodwana Bay which is bit further North of St. Lucia and as extremely clear waters with tons of beautiful fish.

All in all an amazing last trip from Bots!

Flashback: My Last Teen Club :(

When teens are asked what topics they want to learn about at Teen Club, sexual issues are often first on the list.  There are numerous myths and misconceptions all over the world when it comes to sex.  This is especially true in a conservative country like Botswana where teachers, caregivers, and even some healthcare workers are reluctant to talk openly with teenagers, deeming this topic inappropriate and unnecessary for adolescents. I was asked to play an active role in planning a Teen Club about sex so that the Teen Club staff could make sure that all the information which was presented was medically correct.  The planning sessions became a bit tense in the weeks leading up to the event, as some of the clinic staff did not feel that it was appropriate to have such a discussion with the teens.  However, after much debate it was acknowledged that this is a critical subject for all teens and that Teen Club is probably they only place they are going to get to have their questions answered in an open, honest and medically correct way.

In preparation for this discussion/forum, teens were notified a month earlier that the June Teen Club would be about sex, giving them enough time and opportunity to prepare questions. The team placed a visible box in the clinic for them to write down anonymous questions about sex and sexual health.

On the day of the event, teens were divided into the usual two groups (13-15 and 16-19 year olds).  For the younger teens we had 3 stations: playing games; dispelling myths (as you can see me explaining above); and a short discussion on puberty and importance of abstinence.   The teens rotated from station to station every 40 minutes.  There was concern that that some might not be mature enough for the topics, but once again they surprised us with their maturity, concentration, and engagement with the subject.

During the short discussion on puberty we taught them about the normal changes that the body goes through, as they get older, the importance of abstinence and the need for protection when abstinence is impossible. We also answered many of the questions they had about sexual issues and puberty.  During the myths/facts session the teens were given a myth and asked to go to the area of the courtyard corresponding to their feelings about the myth (true, false, or don’t know).   We then discussed the answers in detail, dispelling such myths as “two condoms are better than one” (two condoms are NOT better than one!) and “a girl cannot get pregnant if she has sex standing up” (She CAN!)  which are two common myths in Botswana.

The older teens had male and female condom demonstrations led by three wonderful volunteers from the Ministry of Health (MOH), who volunteered their time and expertise on a Saturday. Their experience is extensive – they have conducted demonstrations all over Botswana in many different settings from schools to community centers to other public gatherings.  

Teens were divided based on gender, in an effort to encourage more open discussion and stimulate questions. Most were eager to share what they thought to be correct information about condoms and their use. The demonstrations certainly stimulated questions ranging from myths of pregnancy and changes the body goes through during puberty to more complex issues such as age of sexual debut and perceived ideas about the roles of a man and a woman in a relationship.

Then all the older teens were brought together and their questions were answered (both those they had placed in the question box and those which they came up with on the spot).  Once encouraged these young men and women were eager to take the opportunity to ask and demystify concepts about sex and sexual health. Due to time constraints we were unable to answer every single question and will definitely have to have more sessions on this topic in the future.

All in all, the event went better than the team expected.  The teens were serious and mature about discussing the subject, even more so than many adults when placed in similar situations. We felt their appreciation through their enthusiastic participation, eager concentration, and mature disposition.  

At the end of the event, the teens surprised us with a dance number and kind words to say goodbye to me and Gelane as it was our last teen club.  We both expressed to them how much we had learned from them and how their strength and resilience are truly an inspiration to all. 

Transitions

Gelane, Bri, Premal and I were super sad to say good bye to each other!
 I know we will keep in touch, but after 2 years of living, working, traveling together it was really hard to part.

It has been forever since I posted, I know, but I am going to try to get back into it.  You might have noticed that the description of my blog has changed (it is now "tales of my life as a pediatrician in Botswana and beyond....") I figured that was easier than setting up a new blog.  That is because I have moved to Cape Town, South Africa!  The Pediatric AIDS Corps program had 5 years of funding which ended in July 2011.  Other sources of funding were sought and the program transitioned to the Global Health Corps this July.  It will be very similar to the PAC program, but smaller and will focus on more than just HIV/AIDS.  Though it was quite hard to leave Botswana, all the patients at the clinic there, and the friends I have made in the last 2 years, it was time to move on.

I also had to say good bye to Gizmo our cat.  He clearly wanted to come along, but loves to be outdoors and I don't think he would have done well in a Cape Town flat.
Luckily Bilen moved in next door and Gizmo moved in with her.
They are both very happy now ;)

I have taken a job with an organization called South to South.  It is an NGO that is funded by USAID and is housed at the University of Stellenbosch in Cape Town.  The goal is to help South Africa expand their pediatric HIV program.  Many healthcare providers are comfortable treating adults with HIV but not children, so our goal is to help them feel comfortable treating children.  In addition, the goal is to increase the number of clinics that provide ARVs (medications to treat HIV) so that patients do not have to travel as far to reach the clinics or wait all day to be seen (do to overcrowding at the centers which exist).  You can read more about it here if interested www.sun.ac.za/southtosouth.I am the Pediatric Clinical Advisor which means I will be doing training and mentoring of healthcare workers (nurses, doctors, lay counselors, etc).  A lot of my time (about 40%) will be spent traveling around the country. Right now we are focusing on a district called Moretele which is in the Northwest Province of South Africa (about 2 hours north of Johannesburg), more on that in a few weeks after I have actual been.

Almost half of my residency class managed to make it to Sonia's wedding!

Sonia and Elliott are officially married

Before moving to South Africa, I was lucky enough to get to spend almost three weeks back in the States with family and friends.  I was really lucky that Sonia decided to get married during that time and so I got to attend her beautiful wedding and see a lot of my friends from residency (as well as two delightful new additions to our St. Chris family - Josie and Walter ;)

Josie, beautiful daughter of Meredith and Trevor

Walter, adorable son of Ruth and Robert

I spent lots of quality time with my parents, grandmother, aunts, uncles, and cousins.  Definitely the thing I miss the most about being "this side" is time with family and friends who are "that side" but luckily the technological age (skype, internet phones, etc) helps with that a lot.

I will try to post a few flashbacks of my last months in Bots and then will move on to giving you a sense of life in Cape Town.  Right now it is a lot of logistics, finding an apartment, buying a car, opening a bank account, etc but photos and details of all those things to come!

Adventures in April

The last week in April was an time for another adventure.  Josanna, Elizabeth, Bilen, and I drove from Gabs to Rustenberg, spent the night at a cute bed and breakfast and had our customary sushi dinner at the Cape Town Fish Market in Rustenberg.  The next morning we drove to Joburg arriving with plenty of time to sort out where to leave my car.  We ended up giving the car to Jacob a guy who works for a valet service at the joburg airport.  They have a business where they pick up cars at the departure terminal, take care of them (including washing them) and return them to the arrival terminal upon your return.  They came highly recommended by the owners of the Bed and Breakfast in Rustenberg.  Though I was still pretty skeptical of giving my car to a total stranger in a city known for car theft, it worked out!  He drove us from the airport to the bus terminal and was there with the car when we came back and it was cleaner than it has been in a long time!  Our bus was 1.5 late so we left Joburg at 11:30 pm and arrived in Maputo at 9:30 am the next day after an uneventful bus ride where we were able to sleep a bit.  From Maputo we got a ride to Bilene a beach town about 3.5 hr away.
Bilene was a really tranquil place.  Not too touristy.  We stayed at a place about a 45 min walk from town which was on the lagoon beach.  We spent three days relaxing at the beach, snorkeling with sea horses, and hanging out at a great local bar.  Chichunga's became our home away from home.  Each day we bought fish from women whose husbands had caught it that morning and Chichunga marinated it during the day and cooked it for us that night.  It was the best fish I have ever had (as you can see in the pictures, we did not leave any behind).
After 3 days, we rode back to Maputo and met up with Gelane (who had been to Cape Town with plans to run the 1/2 marathon - though those plans were thwarted by shin splints she still had a good time there). Maputo is a much busier city than Gabs, and a lot dirtier.  We took tuc tucs around the city, explored an old fort, ate at the fish market, and did a fair amount of shopping.  At night we found a great bar/club which had live karaoke and the following night a reggae band.  We had a minor run in with the police since we were not carrying our passports on our way to a club!  They pulled us over during a random stop (when we happened to have 6 people (including the driver) in a cab which is apparently not allowed, though many more unsafe modes of transport seem to be just fine) and told us that we were supposed to have our passports with us at all times.  After much hemming and hawing (I think they were just looking for us to bribe them), they finally agreed to accompany us back to the backpackers where we were staying so we could show them our passports and then they left us alone. There were also several run ins with giant rats everywhere we went, not the best when you are eating!
After another overnight bus ride back to Joburg we drove to the Drakensberg mountains (a mountain range on the border of South Africa and Lesotho).  It was gorgeous.  We stayed at a great backpackers where there happened to be the "Smoking Dragon's Women's Music Festival"that weekend.  48 hours of music from woman performers. It was great fun though we will have to go back to actually explore the Drakensberg since we didn't get to do any hiking.
Here is the trip in pictures: )

Training, Passover, and Tutoring

The very appropriate coaster that was on the presenters' table during our training.

The first week of April I was back to Bloemfontein, South Africa to do another training.  This time it was an Advanced Pediatric HIV Training.  Many of the nurses and doctors who attended had been at the basic training in February.  It was quite a challenge to explain concepts of antiviral drugs developing resistance to a group of mostly nurses who do not really have the background to understand it (resistance is a very complex topic even for specialists).  But we managed to make it a bit fun by having the participants act out the parts of virus and drugs to visually demonstrate.  Nevertheless many of the participants got to catch up on their sleep during the training, though we got a lot of positive feedback at the end and people did do better on the post test than they had on the pretest.

After a week in Bloemfontein, I returned to Botswana and got to celebrate another passover in Botswana.  This time Liz and Jon hosted a seder.  We could not find any matzoh this year (though there was some last year, I am not sure what happened).  So Liz actually made her own matzoh!!  And then she even crushed it up to make matzoh meal and matzoh balls which were darn good!  

Jon was a very entertaining seder leader

Gelane throughly enjoyed her first seder and first matzoh balls!

We had a lot of vegetarian dishes and I made a really good flourless chocolate cake (thanks to Mom for bringing me Scharfenberger chocolate which totally made it).  

We even had Leonard (one of the Infectious Disease doctor's almost 2 year old son) to find the afikomen.  (He lost his pants during an accidentally spillage earlier in the evening and was more interested in the wire bowl he found than in bargaining for something in return for the afikomen ;)  It was great to be able to celebrate with friends, though I did miss the crazy Scherzer/Reisman seders!

During April I also did a lot of tutoring (I was trying to teach multiplication to K.N. above).  We started a tutoring program for patients in our clinic as many of them are doing poorly in school (a combination of being sick a lot, missing school frequently for routine doctors visits, and developmental delay can happen from HIV itself - especially for those patients who were started on treatment later in life.)  We have recruited volunteer tutors from University of Botswana, among other places, and are now able to offer tutoring every day and on Saturdays.  I spent a few Saturdays in April trying to remember how to do calculus, explaining long division, and learning the capitals of African countries.

Yoga, Jazz, and Family

The gorgeous coast along the Garden Route

The kids who guided us to the elusive eye

The last 2 weeks of March were quite “busy” with vacation.  It started with a weekend yoga retreat.  I have luckily been able to continue my yoga practice here in Botswana, actually going a lot more than I did in the States.  I have a great local teacher and the classes are smaller so there is a lot of personal attention.  My yoga teacher’s teacher did the yoga retreat.  It was held in Groot Marico, which is a small town in South Africa about 2 hours from here.  The setting was ideal, a small retreat center in the middle of nowhere with no cell phone reception, delicious vegetarian meals and nice cottages.  Yoga was conducted in an octagon shaped building and as our faces were inches from the ground she mentioned that the floor was made of a cow dung/mud mixture!  Wish I hadn’t known that part of it, but it did not smell and was coated with some kind of oil to keep it together….The theme of the weekend was "the elements," which meant exploring the parts of us that are Earth, Fire, Water, Air and Space.  I was only around for the first 3 elements since the retreat was three days and we only attended for two.  Exploring the element of Earth meant collecting piles of dirt and staring at it for 15 mins, then spreading the dirt out and staring at it again for 15 min and then putting it back in a pile and seeing how we felt about it now that it was back in pile.  We then discussed how everyone felt about the dirt and what the earth element meant to us.  While I found the idea of the elements interesting and attempting to try to balance them in each of us is a very important and noble goal, staring at dirt, moving water, still water, candles, fire, etc took a lot of patience on my part, which was also a good exercise ;)  The yoga was great, again it was a small group so we got a lot of personal attention. We also took a trip to "The Eye" a crystal clear spring near the retreat place, it was quite an adventure to find as it is tucked into the brush along a dirt road (luckily we ran into those children above who pointed us in the right direction).  It was raining and cold, but that did not stop us from zip-lining and jumping into the nice cold water ;)

On Sunday I left the retreat by way of a packed combi (minivans used for public transport around South Africa) to travel to Johannesburg and meet my parents who had arrived a few days earlier. The following day we flew to George along the Southern coast of South Africa, rented a car and began to drive the Garden Route.  

The Garden Route is the stretch of coastline between Port Elizabeth and Cape Town.  It is a gorgeous drive filled with amazing mountain passes, beautiful beaches, and lots of good fish dinners (something I never get in Botswana)!  We spent the first two nights at an amazing B+B in Plettenberg Bay.  The owner was an amazing cook and the location was amazing.  While there we went to the Tsitsikama National Park and hiked to Storm's River Mouth and part of the way to the waterfall.  I even convinced my dad to go zip-lining! 

On the bridge at the Storms River Mouth

Along the way to the waterfall (we did not have time for the whole hike but the views were breathtaking)

We then drove on Route 62 which is the part of road that weaves in a out of the mountains on some amazing passes.  We spent one night at a lodge in the town of Oudtshoorn that was on an ostrich farm and even collected a few ostrich feathers.

Eric the Farmer

Between Oudtshoorn and Swellendam was the famous Ronnie's Sex Shop.  It is a bar/restaurant in literally the middle of nowhere that started as a joke and has now becoming a famous stop along the route. Had to get the classic photo of Dad on the disintegrating tractor in front.

A photo opportunity in one of the mountain pass

We arrived in Cape Town on Friday in time for the Cape Town International Jazz Festival which just so happened to be the weekend my parents decided to visit (what great timing).  We saw some amazing performances, among them: Hugh Masekela, Earth Wind and Fire and even my friend Matt who was playing with Citie a guitar player from Botswana (the first Botswana artist to perform at the Jazz Festival).

Hugh Masekela (sorry no matter what I do this picture won't rotate, so you will just have to turn your head ;)

Citie on guitar and Matt on sax

We spent four full days in Cape Town exploring.  From taking the cable car up Table Mountain to listening to a concert in The Botanical Gardens to eating amazing food it was an awesome time in a great city.

Dad smelling the flowers at the section of the Botanical Gardens designed for blind people (all the plants had powerful smells and signs about them were translated into Braille as well.)

The Philharmonic performed to a packed crowd of serious picnickers (these people were really hard core about the picnicking right down to the stakes which held wine glasses!)

My parents and their friends Richard and Bobbie Polton (who joined us in Cape Town) and were able to find some nice recycled art of their own with the master artists

Mom with a lion made of wire and beads at the Streetwires store (a place that has hired some the local artists who make all kinds of objects out of recycled cans, wires, beads, etc).  We purchased quite a number of recycled designs from local artists at a art fair we happened upon as you can see above.

He looks like a professional, eh?
There are tons more pictures and stories, but I wanted to get this up before the next adventure  (which starts tomorrow ;) Happy Passover and Easter to all (stories from this year's passover to follow ;)